McCall’s 5984 – on the cutting table

I woke up yesterday wanting to make a jacket. It’s been very cold so I guess I had the sudden urge to work with wool. I picked up this Palmer/Pletsch pattern about a month ago. It’s not something I’d ordinarily choose as I prefer fitted clothing for the most part. But, when I saw Pati Palmer modeling it in the last PP newsletter, I fell in love with it. It’s good to try something new once in awhile!


I wear a lot of jeans so I wanted something that would look pretty with denim. I’ve had this wool/lycra suiting from Fashion Sewing Group in my stash for a few years (maybe six?) and thought it would look fabulous with the faux tortoise-shell snaps I ordered from Pacific Trimming a few months ago. The lining is a silk/lycra charmeuse of unknown origin. What could be nicer than a silk lining?



I cut out the pattern and fitted it this evening. Because of the easy fit of this jacket I only needed a small (5/8″) full bust adjustment. I also made my usual alterations: shorten sleeves 1″ and 5/8″ forward shoulder. I skipped the sway-back adjustment since there’s a large inverted pleat at the back and everything hung just fine without it. Interestingly, I never, ever have to make a high-round adjustment but the back neckline wasn’t quite coming up to the base of my neck so I made a 1/4″ alteration there.

Tomorrow, I will cut and interface the fabric and cut out the lining. It’s been awhile since I worked with wool so I’m really looking forward to this project.


Filed under Fabric, McCall's, Year of the Jacket

17 responses to “McCall’s 5984 – on the cutting table

  1. Ohhh those snaps are super cool. This is going to be lovely.

  2. Funny you mentioned about not usually wearing this style. When I first saw the pic before reading, my first thought that isn’t going to be for her! Now I can’t wait to see it sewn up. Can you model it on yourself? I bet it would look fantastic with jeans.

  3. You always work with such beautiful fabrics and this is no exception. I’m sure this jacket will be a triumph. Love the pattern – so many options.

  4. Very nice fabrics, we buy them craking act, then we always find what to do with!
    The most inconvenient is that often we cannot find anymore.
    I will moniter the publication of the result…

  5. Love the fabric for jacket and lining, neat snaps. I just acquired this pattern as well and really need to think about making it up. Look forward to seeing your finished jacket.

  6. LisaB

    That fabric has been aging in my stash, too. I can’t wait to see your jacket!

  7. Those snaps look divine with the fabric! Good choice. Looking forward to seeing the progress!

  8. That jacket is going to be fabulous on you! You are slim, so you can handle the cut of it and still remain looking svelte.

  9. Ohhhh, this is going to be nice!!!

  10. Great looking jacket and the fabric will be perfect.

  11. Meredith P

    Can’t wait to see the results.

  12. I love this combination!

  13. vernonfashionstudio

    Which view are you making? ‘They’ have shown that stand up collar for this season quite a bit and I have wanted to make a coat with one. I will have to look at this pattern.

    Your fabric choice is lovely and a silk lining would be heaven! I can’t wait to see it on you.

    Linda T

  14. What a lovely combination of silhouette, fabric, lining..and those stunning snaps. This jacket is going to be fabulous…can’t wait to see it !

  15. Dei

    Absolutely adore the colors. Can’t wait to see the finished project.

  16. snow

    I love your Jacket and how you did the collar. Your work is exceptional and the photos are great. Thank you for sharing this with us.