After conferring with Els about my inverted pleat, she directed me to an old post at The Sewing Divas. How could I have forgotten that?!?!? Brilliant, right? Els recommended that I stitch the diagonal line about 5″ down from the top of the opening. As you can see, she’s not only a master tailor, she is also the Queen of Photoshop (the yellow stitching is from the skirt post, the red is the jacket stitching)!
I took these photos after doing a little hand basting with silk thread – it shows up much better than the permanent stitching does. You can see that I started the stitching at the top of the opening and angled it out to the fold. I had originally intended to stitch the pleat closed a bit more but decided against it once I saw that this method would give me the look I wanted.
The stitching is only done on the inside of the pleat and does not show on the outside of the garment. This would all have been much easier to do had I done it before attaching the collar! Believe me, I won’t forget to do it on my next version.
You can see how much more nicely the pleat lays without taking away the swinginess at the lower edge. I have to say that I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this jacket and will definitely make another. Thank you, dear Els, for teaching me something new!