McCall’s 5860 – Part IV

I was hoping to finish up today but after working in the hot sun laying sod yesterday, I am just too tired! Sewing while tired is never good so I will leave the rest for another day.

As I was constructing and attaching the collar, I thought some of you might like to see how I do this as it’s a little different from the way most patterns suggest. This jacket has a really lovely collar on a stand that is actually attached the same way one would attach a convertible collar when there is no yoke to enclose the neck edge.

Before I begin, I like to shape my collar around a ham. I steam it, shape it and allow it to cool.


Next, I sew the outer stand to the jacket, leaving the inner stand free. Notice that I’ve reduced my SAS to 1/4″. Smaller SAS, either 1/4″ or 3/8″ are much easier to sew accurately and you won’t need to trim them later.


Then, the front facing is stitched on through all layers. Stop your stitching and backtack about 1″ or so from the shoulder seam.


Clip through all layers. (Can you see I’ve been playing around with my new Photoshop, lol?)


Turn out the facing, push all of the seam allowances between the clips up into the collar,


and neatly close the collar by machine. Easy, even in this bulky fabric.


As I said, this is a really lovely collar! I may try adding this type of collar the next time I make a convertible collar blouse.


The jacket is finished except for the buttons, buttonholes and pocket flaps. I had to take 3.25″ off the length. Because I’m only 5’3″, I found a shorter length more flattering for me. I also had to take in 1/2″ through the hip at the side seams because I’m not as curvy as the pattern. Oddly, I thought the sleeve cap didn’t have enough height so I simply slipped it out about 1/4″ at the shoulder tapering to nothing 2″ on either side (I’ll add more height to the cap next time). I know this still looks a bit DTD, but I assure you, it isn’t quite this shiny in real life!


To offset the sparkle of the fabric, I have chosen some matte-finish pewter tack buttons that I bought in NYC a few years ago.



Filed under McCall's, Year of the Jacket

19 responses to “McCall’s 5860 – Part IV

  1. It looks fantastic! Thank you for taking us through how you attach a collar. Pictures are worth a thousand words!

  2. This jacket is amazing! I am very envious.

  3. Sue

    I love your blog! You are so generous to share with us your amazing skills. Thank you so much.

  4. Rosie

    I’m learning more each day from your blog. Thank you Gigi!

  5. Ali

    This is such a great tuturial and the quality of your work is terrific. Thank you for sharing this. I look forward to seeing the finished jacket.

  6. CGCouture

    This jacket is awesome! Maybe it’s the indoor lighting that makes it look so DTD?

  7. Your jacket looks great! Thanks for the detail info on the collar stand. I think I used something like this on a Burda Style pattern. Your instructions were 100% better than theirs. I love the matte button, I think it is perfect for this fabric.

  8. I learn so much from your blog. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I noticed the description of the jacket is “fitted”. How fitted is it, i.e., how much can you wear under it? Looks as if you couldn’t wear a blouse, but something more like a tank, camisole or t-shirt. What do you recommend? Sally

    • Sally, it’s quite fitted! I intend to wear a fitted knit top underneath so it’s okay. In my climate it would be pretty rare for me to wear a blouse or shirt with a jacket over – just too hot, even in winter.

  9. You jacket is coming along nicely. Thanks for the tutorial. The pics are clear and looks easy to follow.

  10. Meredith P

    Lovely! Thanks for the notes on the collar application. Exquisite exectution as always.

  11. So simple yet classy. Love the sparkly fabric.

  12. What a beautiful jacket. The fabric is awesome.

  13. summersetbanks

    Looks fabulous, I love the buttons you’ve chosen, too. I think this is going to be a really versatile piece – dress up or down.

  14. Wow, this is flawless! Your how-to photos are amazing, as it has been said above, a great tutorial!

  15. Fabulous as always. I remember those buttons!

  16. Think this is my favorite jacket you’ve made so far! I’m definitely referring back to those collar instructions too. Thanks for sharing!

  17. Fabulous! I love all the details and information. Thank you so much.

  18. jennifer

    This is absolutely gorgeous Gigi!! That does it. You’ve inspired me to get sewing!