McCall’s 5860 – Final

Yay, it’s finished! I didn’t have much left, really, but I like to take my time when it comes to my buttonholes. I made keyhole buttonholes on my Singer 500A “Rocketeer” using the Singer Professional buttonholer (which is for zigzag machines). Because my fabric is textured, I stitched around three times for a nice dense bead.



You’ll notice that I ended up using a different button. After testing, I decided that this larger tack button looked better. I actually think the shininess of it makes my fabric look less shiny.


Here’s a close-up of the flap, which I also cut on the bias to match the pockets.


I am thrilled with the way this turned out and would definitely use this pattern again. (If you’ve never tried a Palmer/Pletsch pattern, you really should, you won’t be disappointed.) Too bad I’ll have to wait quite some time before I’ll be able to wear it!

PARTING SHOT: I’ve been wanting a 2nd single-needle machine for awhile because I’d like to keep one set up for binding (yes, I’m spoiled, I know!). I bartered for this very lovely Consew high-speed straight stitch. My only complaint is that the top is green particle board instead of white plywood so I know I’ll eventually want to replace it. This will become my main machine and my beloved Consew 105 will be set up with a right-angle binder – can’t wait!



Filed under McCall's, Sewing Machines, Year of the Jacket

48 responses to “McCall’s 5860 – Final

  1. CBH

    It looks fantastic. I love the buttonhole. I am so jealous (a good jealous though): I want the straight stitch machine for quilting. How to you barter for one? Where do you go? The machine looks awesome. The whole jacket looks awesome: great work! Thanks for sharing with us.

  2. jacquie

    Your jacket is just beautiful – the fabric is AMAZING and your attention to detail and precision is awe inspiring. Wow!

  3. Your blog is so inspiring! You make such great clothing, and I can’t believe how many awesome sewing machines you have.

  4. Rosie

    I’m coming to stay with you so I can play with all these toys and learn from you and enoy the kitties and the pool :o). The jacket is fabulous Gigi! You are so right about these shinier buttons making the jacket look less shiny.

  5. Heather

    Oh Gigi you are spoilt, indeed! What did you barter with?

    The jacket is lovely as usual, I am never disappointed with your work and I’m always eager to see the end results. A very nice pattern too. I’ve been wondering about the front facing, you turned it perfectly over the seam allowance, did you have to adjust the pattern or was it so well drafted?
    I find on some patterns, the length is simply not long enough to turn it neatly under and I usually notice this only during constuction, such a hassle!

  6. Heather

    And damn those buttonholes are looking fine! I have a Singer 613 (I think it is)and a buttonholer too, just never thought to use it…..of course I have a herd of 401s as well. I’m definitely going to set up one with the buttonholer.

  7. Your jacket looks great.

  8. Jan

    What a cute jacket! I’m loving the bias pockets. The buttonholes are perfect, as well as your button choice. To be honest, I wasn’t loving the fabric at first glance, but now that it’s finished, I can see it with almost any slacks or jeans. How fun!

  9. LisaB

    Great jacket. Thanks for the reminder about the bias portions. I want to remember to do that as well when I made a jeans-style jacket.

    Congrats on the latest addition to the machine collection!

  10. Seriously beautiful jacket, Gigi. Love the buttons and those buttonholes make me jealous LOL!

  11. Lindsay T

    Yummy! I picked up a silver metallic that’s very similar to this at PR Weekend in Philly. You know I would get a lot of wear out of this jacket here in NYC…

  12. Lena

    May I say that all your garments are a perfection? 🙂

  13. I was a skeptical when I saw the pattern illustration, but this jacket is really stylish. Love the combination of blingy fabric with outdoorsy stylish. Unique!

  14. This is so gorgeous, I absolutely love it!

  15. You’re jacket is very pretty. I’m going to have to try this sewing the buttonhole more than once because that is one beautiful keyhole buttonhole!

    Congrats on the new machine!

  16. Linda Ash


    Just wondered where you shop for your industrial machines? Do you ever have any probs with them and how old are they? I think I would like an industrial machine (well a couple really, like you I like em!!!).

    • Linda, I have a friend who is a dealer and master mechanic. I buy most of my machines from him but I’ve also bought a few of them privately since I know he can work on them for me. Your best bet is to find a good local shop. About half of my machines were purchased new. Others are at least 20 years old. Age does not matter with industrials as long as parts are available. I have a friend who owns a Singer 31-15 from 1900!

  17. Terry

    What a pleasure it is to see your work. It is always Perfection.

    Thanks for inviting us in.


  18. Yet another gorgeous jacket! You are doing really well with your goal.

  19. Oh. My. Gosh. How awesome is that Singer sewing machine?! It looks so… retro rocket ship. When is it from? The 50’s, maybe? I love it to bits!

    • Yes, she’s awesome, isn’t she? She was made in 1961 and was a Christmas gift from a friend two years ago. I just love her!

  20. RobbieK

    Your topstitching is absolutely perfect! Does the industrial machine make that any easier?

  21. Beautiful jacket. As always it looks so well done!

  22. Vibeke in Oslo

    Gorgeous as always, but that buttonhole is perfection. Just perfection. 😀

  23. Dei

    Master work. Fabulous jacket.

  24. Bobbie Koriakin

    What a gorgeous jacket!!! And I am green with envy seeing your new industrial machine ! Thanks for sharing….I always learn so much from your posts!

  25. Meredith P

    Love that Rocketeer and your jacket. Fantastic buttonholes. Do you still have your plain ol’ Bernina 1530? I’ll bet she doesnt get much use with the industrials around.

  26. Colleen P.

    I didn’t think I liked the fabric but now that I see the finished garment I love it! It’s just the right touch of sheen to dress up jeans or casual trousers. I don’t know why I didn’t like it at first, I used to have a pair of shoes that color and I wore them entirely to shreds because they went with..well, everything!

  27. Karen O

    The jacket is perfection!!! I am so inspired to keep sewing. I only have one machine and should receive my serger today!! I am so excited. Is this how you end up with so many machines:) Thank you for sharing this beautiful piece.

  28. Colleen P.

    LOL-Karen I think it is how one ends up with a house full of machines! Enjoy your serger, when I got my first one umpteen years ago it literally changed my life! No joke, sewing became so much easier, faster, more efficient, more polished and finished looking.

  29. Gigi this is so retro-cool! Makes me want to get out all of my LaBelle LP’s!

  30. Heather

    Just a thought, wouldn’t a needlefeed machine have been better for the bias-binding apparatus?

  31. Lovely new jacket #7, and a nifty machine too.

  32. Liz

    Your jacket is amazing! And the cuffs are perfect. Any suggestions for getting such a perfectly straight transition from sleeve vent to cuff – no bulk, no bumps? And such perfectly straight top stitching. I find my machine has real problems with bulk and goes a bit wonky top stitching on those outside corners.

  33. You have some great talent! The last time I tried to make a button hole it looked absolutely terrible…yours looks so professional! Thanks for sharing!

  34. Ellen

    I love your blog and your work. I have a question about the straight stitch industrial machines. Can you easily set them up for machine quilting? Does yours have feed dogs that can be lowered?

    I really have been looking for an industrial machine so since you have one I thought I could get an opinion from someone who really knows about machines.

    • An industrial straight stitch is sheer heaven for quilting! You cannot drop the feeder but it takes only a minute to remove it altogether. If you do buy one consider purchasing a blank (no cutout for a machine) industrial stand to put behind it so that you have lots of space when you are quilting. They are very inexpensive and really come in handy.

  35. The jacket is to die for! Your Rocketeer brings back memories. It’s the machine I sewed on until I got married and passed it along to my sis. We sure wish we had it now.

  36. 42nd comment–really? Did I just NEED to tell you how cool and awesome looking that vintage sewing machine is? And did I HAVE to tell you that your silver space jacket is the coolest? Well heck I did!

  37. Wow! Simply awesome!

  38. I found you! Not that you were missing, but I knew I had seen this jacket in construction on a blog. I was in Cynthia’s picking up my daughter from sewing class. Your jacket is in prominent display and I knew I’d seen it somewhere. Beautifully constructed and quite glamourous in person!

  39. Debbie Soles

    Hi Gigi;

    I noticed that you didn’t topstitch the flap just below the flap attachement seam. Does that mean when you unbutton the flap the attachment seam’s raw edge shows, or did you finish that seam?


  40. It is the “Jacket of the Year”. Outstanding right down to the buttonholes.