HP Deneuve Heirloom Shirt – Part II

Last night I began putting together the strips of fabric and lace for the bib. I use my own version of heirloom sewing techniques that work well for heavier fabrics. I have found that traditional rolling-and-whipping techniques are great for heirloom fabrics like batiste but don’t always work with fashion fabrics.

First, I stitch the beading to the fabric strip right at the edge of the embroidery. I’m using a zipper foot on my Consew which allows me to see exactly where I need to sew.




Next, I would ordinarily do a rolled hem to finish off the seam allowances but my linen is quite crisp and loosely woven and didn’t take well to this technique. Instead, I used the narrowest 3-thread overedge possible, running the needle right along my previous stitching. On a home overlock you can achieve this by setting the machine up for rolled hem but leaving the tensions set for a balanced stitch. Continue sewing the pieces together until you achieve the desired size. Press well, making sure there are no pleats between the strips.


To keep the seams flat and meld everything together, I like to do a small zigzag between the holes in the beading/entredeux and the main fabric. Use a very fine thread that won’t “fill up” the holes (here I am using Madeira Tanne) and you won’t even be able to see it when you are finished.


And so I am finished with the most labor-intensive part of this garment! The rest will be pretty quick and easy, I think.



Filed under Hot Patterns

21 responses to “HP Deneuve Heirloom Shirt – Part II

  1. Rosie

    I love it! Just beautiful and learning even more from you.

  2. carina

    It´s looking beautiful! I would like to know how you do 2-thread rolled hem! I have a 3-thread machine but I did not have idea that it could be set for rolled hems! Pls, pls, share with us your trick! xoxo fm Brazil

    • Only some overlocks can do a 2-thread rolled hem. All overlocks can do a 3-thread rolled hem but settings will vary by make and model. With newer models you usually only have to flip a switch, remove the left needle and (sometimes) make adjustments to the tension. Many older models require the plate and/or foot to be changed. You should consult your manual for instructions on how to make a rolled hem with your particular machine.

      • carina

        Gigi, thank you very much for the tips – unfortunately I do have an older model, so the settings would be much more difficult…..

  3. gia

    brilliant! I am curious to watch you put this together – the blouse in the old photo is so pretty. where did you get it?

  4. Dei

    Oh, this will be lovely once done. Thanks for the instruction.

  5. Sally

    Lovely work, as usual.

  6. Wow! thank you for sharing. I enjoy reading your posts about sewing–it’s fascinating to see everything come together. Question–did you do the 3-thread overedge stitching *after* you sewed the beading to the fabric strips? I’m just trying to be clear about the sequence.

    Thank you again, Gigi!

    Rose in SV

  7. Stefani Sarah

    Ohhhhh my… I am in love! I’m melting away as I scroll down the page. Thank you for sharing. 🙂

  8. What a beautiful bib and such beautiful work – thank you for showing all your techniques.

  9. jennifer

    Absolutely gorgeous. Thank you for sharing the techniques and photos.

  10. vernonfashionstudio

    Just gorgeous! It is so time comsuming but the result is stunning!

    Once I made something so pretty I would never wear it for fear of slopping something on it. Or would have to wear a bib over it.

    Linda T

  11. hannah

    All i can say is WOW!

  12. Marianne Isaacs

    That is just gorgeous . Well done . Gigi I am also really admiring your beautiful keyhole buttonhole on you jacket. Did you use a buttonhole attachment on your old singer to get that . I am about to buy a buttonhole attachment for a Singer 99k and am wondering whether that is what you have used , I understand that these attachments work on a whole range of singers from the 50 s . I would really appreciate your letting me know , Regards Mem

    • Thank you, Marianne! I made the buttonholes with the Singer Professional buttonholer on my Singer 500A. The Professional only works on machines with zigzag but the old buttonholers for straight-stitch machines are readily available on Ebay. You’ll want to look for the one in the green plastic case for your 99K.

  13. This is good, thanks! I am wanting to do something similar on a pillow for my craft/sewing/studio to dress it up a bit, maybe could take this to the lumbar pillows for the dining chairs somehow, hm, now I’m in trouble…

  14. This is beautiful. Contemporary and classic.