Category Archives: Patterns

Knipmode birthday skirt – Final

Well, I had to put in a few late nights but managed to finish my skirt a few hours before my birthday dinner. There is a small section of binding in the back that needs a little tweaking but I can take care of that after the mad holiday rush is over.

I am so happy with how this turned out! It is definitely a showstopper and sexy without being vulgar. I would love to make this again sometime in a more summery fabrication.

I apologize that I didn’t take more photos of the sewing process since I was in such a rush at the end. I honestly didn’t think I would finish!

Thanks for visiting and a Merry Christmas to those who celebrate. The baby is spending the night with us tonight so that she can spend Christmas Eve Day with us. Our meal will be simple this year since I don’t want to spend all day in the kitchen. Babies don’t keep, after all.

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Knipmode birthday skirt – Part 3

I made excellent progress tonight. I was able to fine-tune the fit and stitch the Princess seams. Because I am pressed for time, I installed an invisible zipper (photo lightened to sow detail) on the left side instead of two shorter zips in both back Princess seams. I have very little curve between the waist and hip so I can get away with it although I don’t prefer it.

I am usually terrible at sewing under pressure but the sewing gods smiled upon me today – I did not have to do any reverse sewing! Tomorrow, I will re-pin the right side seam and do a final try on before closing up the last seam. Then, I will cut a lining and stitch the petersham waist stay. Thursday will be the big night as I’ll be cutting into my lace.

Thanks for visiting and stay tuned!

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Knipmode birthday skirt – Part 2

Today, I finished taping together the 78 pages (!) of the pattern and fitting my muslin. My hips measure exactly a size 38 so I cut a size 40 thinking I’d have a bit extra for fitting but, yikes, I was barely able to squeeze into my muslin. I am wondering if the pattern is intended for stretch fabrics. I will have to check on that when I have time.

Once I worked out my fitting issues, I thread traced the seam lines on all of my pattern pieces. Sounds tedious but I find it rather therapeutic. The fabric is a beautiful wool crepe that’s been in my stash since the 1990s.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the main skirt put together and the zipper installed. Then I’ll get the flounce cut out to check the fit. Enjoy the rest of your Sunday!

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Knipmode birthday skirt

So, I am needing to take a break from the devoré sweatshirt (sadly, I have been too busy to finish it up!) to make a skirt for my birthday dinner at my favorite Italian restaurant next Saturday.

I recently purchased this stunning embroidered Swiss lace from my friend Ann at http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com:

And when I saw this Knipmode pattern, I immediately thought they would make a perfect match!

I will get the pattern taped together and make a quick muslin to check the fit today and, hopefully, get this cut out and started tomorrow . I have no time to make a top so I will just wear a black off the shoulder sweater with it.

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Woven sweatshirt – McCall’s 7195

Either last year or the year before – 2020 is still a bit of a blur – this pattern caught my eye. A sweatshirt pattern for woven fabric? That might come in handy some day!

So, I’ve been going through my stash, clearing out fabrics I know I’ll never use and I came across this quite fun sheer fabric with raw-edge flowers loosely applied throughout. What was I ever thinking I’d make with this? Heaven only knows. It was in the donate pile when I remembered this pattern and thought this might be a fun thing to have in my wardrobe.

I made my usual adjustments (FBA and shorten sleeves by 1”) and also lowered the neckline by about 1.5”. I am not a fan of jewel necklines with my round face and short neck. Instead of ribbing at the neck, I used a binding. The requisite ribbing was used on the sleeves and hem.

My thought was to wear this over a white tank but, next time, I will underline the body instead. Turns out I am not a fan of layering! I still have quite a lot of this fabric so maybe I will remake it as the ribbing is also not as white as I would like but it was what I was able to get quickly online.

Because I planned on wearing it over a white tank, I bound the darts with white net. To prevent show-through elsewhere, I bound the seams with a nude net. The fabric actually behaved pretty well going through my 1” binding attachment.

Believe it or not, I found both at JoAnn Fabrics and they were perfect for this project and not horrible to work with. I also bought some white poly chiffon at JoAnn also thinking it would be okay for binding but it is just too horrible to be used for anything except maybe a Halloween costume – yes, it’s that gross – so out it goes.

I’m now working on another version of this pattern in a silk velvet devoré that has been in my stash for a very long time. I won’t kid you, it is not going together quickly as each seam must be hand basted because it simply refuses to behave, even with a walking foot. Hopefully, I will have enough time next week to finish it up as I think it would be nice to wear on thanksgiving with skinny black pants.

That’s all for today, have a lovely weekend, everyone and thanks for visiting!

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Wool jersey dress – Butterick 5313

I have been wanting a Chanel style knit dress with a flounce so I pulled out this oldie but goodie pattern. The charcoal grey wool jersey has been in my stash forever and I was so happy to delete it from my inventory!

I previously altered this pattern for a full bust but knew I’d need more circumference since the wool jersey has much less stretch than the knits I used previously. I added 1/2” to each seam tapering to nothing at the sleeve hem. I also added decorative bands at each seam and finished the neckline and sleeve with bands to tie it all together.

My original plan was to embellish tue dress with black pearls but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that what I really needed was a simple, basic dress so the bands were my way of taking it a bit beyond the pattern without making it too distinctive.

This pattern is pretty easy to pass over, I know, but I’ve made View B four times now and it’s a nice, simple dress that’s very flattering, goes together quickly and pairs well with various jacket styles.

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Burda Style 09/2016 #115 Bomber Jacket – Part VI

It’s been slow going here. Still suffering with insomnia so I haven’t trusted myself to do too much sewing. I felt kind of energetic today so I thought I’d get the collar and cuffs attached, at least.

This is really nice, medium-heavy rib knit that I ordered from Pacific Trimming. It’s the perfect weight for a light jacket but not heavy enough for an outerwear jacket.

I am glad it’s starting to come together. Hopefully tomorrow I will feel up to attaching the waistband then I will have to set this aside for a bit, which I *hate* to do but I’m doing a sew along in the Hot Patterns FB group and our deadline is Thanksgiving! I don’t like starting something new before I finish but I’m so anxious to wear this jacket so I think it’ll be okay. 🙂

In the past when I’ve sewn with leather, I’ve used paper clips or binder clips to “pin” things together. I bought these cute little Clover clips on a whim awhile ago – I think they are for quilting – and they worked so perfectly here!

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Burda Style 09/2016 #115 Bomber Jacket – Part IV

Not a lot has been happening in the sewing room this past week. Work has been really busy and I’ve been suffering with insomnia, ugh. I don’t like sewing when I’m tired because I just end up making mistakes that I have to fix later.

I did manage to stitch my sleeves to the back and fronts yesterday. I glued down the leather seam allowances and catchstitched the fabric seam allowances. It was nice doing a bit of hand work while watching Ratched on Netflix. I’m not removing the basting but you could if it bothers you.

Next up, I’ll be installing the zipper – as soon as I figure out where I put it.

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Burda Style 09/2016 #115 Bomber Jacket – Part III

I took a day off from work today to work on my jacket. This year I find myself in the unusual situation of having a lot of PTO that I’m going to lose if I don’t use it. I’m sure many of you are in the same boat!

I decided to start by cutting out my leather sleeves and then work on my single welt pockets. Now, I can crank out single welt pockets all day long so I went into this feeling a bit over-confident. Big mistake.

My first mistake was thinking that I would use my usual welt pattern.

Here’s my disappointing result. Really, I should’ve guessed this would happen.

So then I just cut some rectangles and folded my seam allowances in on the sides and glued everything together. Very easy with a good result.

That wasn’t the end of my difficulty. Let me tell you, single welts are much more difficult to make when you are using leather. Yes, I should have made a sample first but I didn’t and once I cut into the first front there was no changing my mind.

Just for fun, I whipped up a double welt sample. I didn’t measure the welts, didn’t mark my stitching lines, used no interfacing, my stitching was wonky because I didn’t have my Teflon foot on and I didn’t press anything. It looked pretty good with zero effort and was much less bulky than my single welt. Lesson learned! The next time I want to use leather, I will make double welt pockets!

I did finish them so now I can move on. Can’t say that I’m 100% happy with them but that’s okay. You can’t learn from mistakes if you never try anything new.

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Burda Style 09/2016 #115 Bomber Jacket – Part II

I finally just took a deep breath and cut and I’m really happy with it so far. The back really *had* to be cut this way as I couldn’t imagine it cut any other way. (Sorry for the wonky photo – panoramic while standing tippy toe on a stool!)

Ordinarily, when I want to match a pattern across a center front I use the CF line as my guide. But the front of this jacket veers off-grain in the upper chest plus I’m using a zipper so there is no overlap. So, instead I cut one front, lining up the lower CF line with the center of the medallion, and then laid it face down on the fabric, matching the pattern, and cut my second front. It looks weird now but once the zipper is installed it will look better, I hope.

I chose a cotton batiste as the underlining for the body of the jacket. I love using an underlining because I can make very clear markings without worrying about show-through.

Before I hand basted the layers together, I fused a small piece of interfacing where my welt pockets will be. My fabric ravels pretty easily so I wanted that extra reinforcement. Again, I pinked the edges to avoid a hard line showing on the right side.

I also stabilized the bias edges with strips of fusible interfacing. If your fabric doesn’t want to be fused you can always fuse to your underlining – another bonus to using an underlining.

The last step before my favorite part – the welt pockets – basting the layers together. I use either silk or cotton basting thread but I definitely enjoy using the silk thread more as it glides through the layers so easily. I couldn’t locate my basting needles (hence the tiny stitches) so I just used a #9 hand needle and basted within the seam allowances. I really recommend basting needles as they are longer and make fast work of this somewhat tedious job.

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