Category Archives: Burda WOF

Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Final

All done! As I thought, I had to take the shoulders in an additional 1/2″ and lower the armscye 5/8″ (to make up for the deeper seam I had to take at the shoulder). The back was also too wide (and I have a broad back!) so I shaved a little bit off of the back armscye. I ended up removing 4″ of ease at the hemline, tapering to nothing just above the waist. It’s still quite voluminous, as you can see!

front

This blouse will be tucked in so it doesn’t have a whole lot of appeal on the dressform. This can really be dressed up or down as it would work equally well with jeans or a pencil skirt. I absolutely love all the pintucks even though they do get a bit lost in the print. They show up a lot better in real life than in the photos. The pintucks on the sleeve are especially pretty.

sleevetucks

Here it is with the scarf used as a sash. I cut it as instructed but found it really long and ended up cutting 12″ off the length.

beltedfront

All of the edges were narrow-hemmed by machine with a 1/4″ rolled hem foot, as was the bottom of the blouse. Attachments are such a huge time-saver, get them out and practice! 🙂 If you need a refresher, check out the tutorial I posted at the Sewing Divas a few years ago. It really is easy as can be!

scarf

And, I found the perfect little blue button in my stash. This came from Maggi’s For Fine Fabrics at least a dozen years ago. I always love a little bit of sparkle!

button

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Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part II

My goal for today was to finish the pintucks, bind the neckline and finish the sleeve placket. Mission accomplished!

The instructions have you finish the sleeve placket by making a double-turned hem, which looks very home-made, IMO. Since this is a blouse (vs. a shirt) a simple bound placket is better and easier. I cheated and bound mine by machine with the 1.25″ binder. I should have used a narrower binder but I didn’t feel like swapping out all the parts. It’s a bit wider than it should be but I think it looks fine. I used the same width to bind the neckline (I warned you I’d be binding everything in sight, didn’t I?).

placket

And now we get to the trouble I have with Burda. Most of the magazine patterns start at size 36. I need a 34. It’s only one size but it is amazing all of the little adjustments I have to make above the bust. The neckline, shoulder and upper chest of the 36 are always too wide. Even after my initial adjustments, I had to make more during sewing. I added two more pintucks to both the front and the back to draw the shoulders in more. I also had to take the shoulder seams up by 5/8″ so that I wouldn’t be arrested for indecent exposure. Consequently, I’ll need to lower the armscye 5/8″ and I can already see that the shoulder seam is going to have to come in a little more.

frontneckline

backneckline

You can see that this blouse has a lot of volume. I can easily take in 4″ from the bust down and still retain enough volume for it not to look skimpy.

fullfront

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Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part I

The worst is over, I have finished all of the pintucks! Yay! I do love pintucks, just not making them. As you can see, I thread traced each fold line. Not the fastest method but it was the best and most accurate way this time.

pintucks

This is an Italian silk crepe de chine that I bought at Maggi’s For Fine Fabrics in Boca Raton years ago. I had a coordinating linen jacquard that was made into a jacket back when big shoulder pads were still in. It went to Goodwill a long time ago! As much as I love to buy new fabric, it is actually fun to finally find just the right pattern for some of these old pieces.

Now to begin the boring and time-consuming task of pulling all of the threads to the back side (twenty-eight times!).

ETA: Thank you lin3arossa for reminding me about single-thread pintucks! The much-revered Kenneth King has an excellent tutorial up on the Threads website here. I haven’t sewn single-thread pintucks in many years and had completely forgotten about the technique. Doh!

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Burda Style 08/2010 #112

Yes, I am working on my big-bow skirt but after seeing Ann’s version of this top last week I was inspired to whip up one of my own! I used a size 34 and made adjustments for a full bust, sway back and forward shoulder.

082010112

The outer fabric is a brown rayon/poly/lycra stretch lace I had purchased from Textile Studios a few years ago. The inner fabric is a rose bamboo/lycra from Fabric Mart (it’s not as peachy as it looks in the 2nd photo). I bought several colors of this bamboo knit and just love it!

brownlace

I bound both necklines with an 1.25″ binder. Using the binder requires one shoulder to be left open and binding the neckline flat (check any of your RTW tees and you’ll see what I mean). To balance out the bulk, I left the right shoulder open on the under layer and the left shoulder open on the upper layer. Otherwise, I would have had a large lump on the left side.

brownlaceneckline

You’ll notice that I didn’t do the twisted hem. I really liked it but didn’t like it on me. So, I took in the sides, shortened both layers (the inner layer is 1″ longer) and hemmed them separately. I like it much better on me this way. Even if you don’t like this top, the neckline is fabulous and should be traced off for future use.

Fabric has been selected for the Big Bow Skirt and I was sidetracked into tracing off this peasant blouse with matching scarf from the 08/2010 issue. It’s the cover blouse and Bryan remarked that it looked like me so what could I do?

082010120

In light of the recent loss of an important piece of a TNT pattern, I’ve decided to get more organized. I mean, I am organized but I do tend to let patterns pile up a bit before I put them away. I needed some way keep everything together but out of my way. Yesterday, I was at my friend’s shop and he asked if I wanted these old literature racks because he was tossing them. Perfect! I hung one on the door of Sewing Room #1 to hold patterns that need to be filed away,

rack1

and the other hangs on the wall of Sewing Room #2 to hold patterns that I’m currently working on or are in the queue. This isn’t the best location because of the light switch but it was the best available. If it doesn’t work out, I’ll hang it on the door. Hopefully, this will at least keep everything together and keep my counters clear.

rack2

8/26/10 ETA: I didn’t mention that I copied Ann’s construction method. If you click on the link to Ann’s blog you can check it out. Basically, you are making two separate shirts and then stitching the sleeve to both at the same time. Ann’s tee is attached at the hem (she made the twisted version) and the armscye. Mine is attached at the armscye only.

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I Love Knippie!

knipmode

I fell in love with this adorable skirt (view 16B) in the October, 2009 issue of Knip Mode and ordered a copy from Stoff Art on Ebay, with whom I’ve dealt countless times (she also sells Patrones and Diana – please note that she is currently on vacation).

rock

I absolutely love Knip Mode! Nearly all the patterns come in my size and they are so much easier to trace than Burda WOF. I don’t read Dutch but it’s similar enough to German that I can figure out what’s what. Note that there are only two colors to trace on this particular sheet – black (zwart) or red (rood). Some of the other sheets also use green (groen). The lines are easy to see and the paper is white and glossy.

patternsheet

The sheets are also smaller so they are more manageable. I’m able to lay one sheet out on a 4′ table so I traced off the skirt while it was slow this afternoon.

sheets

I have always wanted a subscription to Knip Mode. Right now, it costs me about $20 per individual issue (with shipping). Yes, they are available each month from Stoff Art but that’s more than I can justify paying so I’m pretty particular about which ones I buy. If my grandmother were still alive I’d ask her to send them to me every month! How wonderful would it be to get Knip Mode and Burda WOF every month? I’d be in heaven! Speaking of Burda, I caved and resubscribed. I loved the last two issues so much and was lured back in. AND, I’ve actually traced a garment from each issue already!

I finished my silk blouse last week but decided that it’s just too risky to sew at the shop. Although I was very careful working on it (I constantly washed my hands and covered the tables with examining table paper) I still managed to get an oil stain on the front. I was going to bring my Marrakesh pants in anyway but once the Knip Mode arrived I decided that was a safer project. I may bring a denim skirt with me next week. There isn’t much that could happen to denim, right?

My friend is just starting to come back to the shop for a couple of hours each day. I’m guessing I’ll still be working overtime here for a few weeks. I absolutely can’t wait to get back to my normal schedule. I’ve been too tired to sew and am becoming very b*tchy!

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Quilt and tunic – plugging away!

I’ve been kind of hacking away at my two current projects – a little bit every day!

I am LOVING my quilting setup! Until my Consew 105 is ready to bring home I decided to use my Singer 20U for the quilt. It has a table behind it making it perfect for large projects. I like the fact that I can work on the quilt for a few minutes and then just put the needle down, turn it off and leave everything until next time. It’s great because I don’t feel the need to hurry up and finish and it doesn’t interfere with my garment sewing.

setup

I’m happy with the way it’s turning out. Nothing earthshattering but I thought it would be a great way to practice my freemotion work and I’ll end up with something perfect for curling up on the couch.

freemotion

The tunic has been cut out as well. Because the fabric is very wispy and slithery I taped it to my cutting board so that everything would stay on grain while I was cutting.

layout

I also pulled out the box of extra-fine Clover pins that I bought several years ago. They are really nice for chiffons but you do need to “weave” them in because they will otherwise fall out. I’m not really a big pinner but I wanted to use a few on the darts to keep everything straight.

pins

Parting shot:

The Phals are blooming! Most of you don’t know this but years ago (before I became a mother) I was very heavily into orchids. They are, without a doubt, my very favorite flower. These days, I stick mainly to the easy ones that don’t require much attention. My phaelonopsis always spoil me with flowers and I love having them around the house!

phals

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Preparing for the week ahead

I didn’t get a lot done this weekend, unfortunately. The Boyfriend had a softball tournament this past week so I spent all day yesterday at the park. To be fair, he did tell me to stay home and sew but there I was.

Today, I finally pressed the crinkled silk for another WOF tunic. That seemed to take *forever* but now that it’s done I can cut it out tomorrow.

silk

I also put together my quilt sandwich. After kneeling on my tile floor for 45 minutes, I decided that I should stick with smaller quilts in the future -something that will fit on my cutting table.

Renee asked how I planned to quilt this project. I really enjoy free-motion quilting and find it very relaxing. It’s very easy once you get the hang of it but does take practice. I am not particularly *good* at it in the traditional sense. I do not meander as I am really horrible at it. I am better at loops and swirls (which I happen to really like better anyway) so that’s what I usually stick with.

The first step is dropping or covering the feed dogs (check your manual on how to do this) on your sewing machine. I’m working on a commercial machine so I remove my feeder completely.

feeder1

Next, attach a freemotion or darning foot to the machine. Before beginning bring the bobbin thread up to the top so that you don’t get any snarls or knots on the underside. Then take a few stitches to secure the thread and clip the tails (don’t forget to lower the presser foot). Then it’s time to start the fun! The key is to run the machine fast and move the work slowly. I work with my hands on either side of the foot and concentrate on a 6″ square area at a time. You can wear rubber gloves or gardening gloves with rubber palms to help you guide the fabric more easily. Then just play around until you get the hang of it. I always practice on scraps before I get started to warm up and check the tension.

sample

ETA: When I am working with a larger item to be quilted I spray the sewing machine table with silicone to make it easier to slide around as I’m quilting. Please take care and do not spray the floor – I do not want you to slip and break a leg!

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Milly Tunic – final!

I sewed a little bit each day this week and managed to finish the tunic today while catching up on season 2 of The Tudors.

I’m really happy with the way this turned out and am anxious to cut another out of the crinkled silk chiffon.

millytunic

I know it looks kind of maternity on the dressform but it really is flattering on thanks to the bust darts and fitted back. It will look great with white pants or shorts this summer. I tend to favor tops that are quite fitted through the midriff so it’s fun to mix it up a little.

Nancy asked why I put the eyelets in before joining the upper and lower bodic pieces. I guess I did that by force of habit – sometimes it isn’t possible to get the pliers in when you need to insert an eyelet or snap in the interior of the garment. Of course, because the neckline is open on this garment, it would have made more sense to insert the eyelets after the seam had been sewn. Good call!

Nancy also nominated me for a Sisterhood Award! I am honored and grateful to be your sewing sister!

award

I am supposed to nominate ten other sewing bloggers for this award. Naturally, all the blogs I already read have been nominated but I will work on that in the next few days. Sew on!

ETA: This pattern is from Burda Nähen: Mode Quick & Easy #E-715 from 2003. It is in German and was sent to me by a friend in Germany. The pattern is Bluse #1.

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Milly Tunic – Part III

I didn’t get a lot done today – Daylight Savings Time is really kicking my butt! But, I did manage to finish the neckline facing, attach the neckline ties and set the eyelets.

First, I marked the seamline and the topstitching line on the lower bodice. You can barely see the lines because I used white chalk. I marked the eyelet placement with the pink pencil.

markings

Next, I fused a strip of interfacing (Palmer/Pletsch Sheer) over the eyelet placement dots before punching the holes.

interfacing

Here, the eyelets have been set. These are your regular garden-variety Dritz eyelets that come in a bulk pack of assorted colors. They are cheap, readily available and I’ve had no problems with the paint chipping off. I will have to use a zipper foot to stitch both the seam and the topstitching as it’s pretty tight on both sides.

eyelets

A tool I could not live without: the Prym Vario Plus plier kit. I bought this ages ago from Birch Street Clothing and love it so much that I had a friend pick me up a spare when she was in Germany. I think I paid $49.95 for it around 18 years ago – they really haven’t gone up much in price since. I use it for eyelets, anorak snaps and Color Snaps. As you can see, it’s not looking real neat and tidy but after all these years I know which pieces I need even if they’re not in their special spot.

varioplus

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Milly Tunic – Part II

I’ve stitched the darts in the back and in the bodice. The front edges have been finished and the facing is on. I decided on a narrow facing instead of a bias binding since I didn’t have a lot of scraps left.

tunic1

The bias strips for the ties have been cut and are ready to be pieced and sewn. I had hoped to use the border for the ties but there wasn’t enough (the fabric only had a border on one side) which is fine since bias ties hang better anyway.

bias

I should have this finished in the next day or two. I can’t wait to wear it! As I said in a previous post, I wished I’d had several of these last summer. So, I have already picked out fabric for my next version. This is a crinkled silk chiffon that I bought at Kashi’s 3 or 4 years ago. It’s really beautiful and I am happy to have finally found the perfect pattern for it.

silkchiffon

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