As promised, here’s a quick review of the alterations I made to this pattern. After cutting out a test upper bodice, I determined that I’d need about 3/4″ in additional length over the bust in order for the seam to ride under my bra. Heaven forbid, as Heidi Klum says, that the boobs aren’t in the right place! Since the upper bodice is very loose fitting (and has gathers under the bust and at the shoulder) I didn’t require any additional width. I simply marked the additional length on the pattern and used my French curve to draw a smooth line.
Neckline gaposis is often a problem on fuller-busted figures and is really easy to fix. I discussed this alteration HERE a few years ago (hit your browser back button to return here). The objective is to shorten the facing and ease the extra fabric of the neckline to it. I did a down-and-dirty job of it here. Unlike my previous tutorial, the outer edge of this facing is not sewn to anything else so I just tapered to nothing at the cut edge.
This does change the shape of the facing from a straight on-grain piece to a curved piece as you can see upon comparing the altered piece with the original.
What about the grainline, you ask? I changed the grainline to the center front. Cutting a straight facing on-grain serves to stabilize the neck edge. Once the facing becomes curved that is no longer possible. The facings are interfaced and the neck edges eased to it so stretching really isn’t an issue, in my opinion. If you wanted to use straight tape I guess you could but I don’t think it’s necessary and would just add bulk.
Some of you may remember this fabric that Ann sent me last summer. It’s the Boho Chic Jersey in a different colorway.
If you’re new here, this was the must-have fabric of 2008! I used it for this dress (the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan Dress):
I thought it would be perfect for Kwik-Sew 3616 and you know how much I love to play around with patterns! I think the most important thing to do when working with a panel print is to plan carefully and never, ever overcut – you don’t want to cut into an adjacent panel or border that you might need later. This means your yardage will resemble Swiss cheese when you are done. 🙂 As I cut out the sections I lay them on the floor so that I can get a better idea how it’s all going to fit together. I actually cut the lower bodice so that the border would wind up in the hem – I wanted as little white directly on my stomach as possible.
I decided to seam the center back since it was too wide to fit into one panel. I would have liked a smoother transition over the shoulder but there just wasn’t any way to work that out due to the size of the pattern pieces.
Once I’m finished sewing this version I think I’ll transfer the paper pattern to manila so that I have a nice, sturdy permanent pattern. This one’s a keeper.
This past Saturday morning I burst out of bed, made coffee and dashed to my sewing room, excited to begin my day. I’ve been “almost done” with my silk tunic for quite a few weeks now. Saturday was the day I was going to quickly stitch on the neckline binding and do my finish work before moving on to another project.
So, I cut my bias binding and ran it through the folder. Hmm, not so good – really uneven. Easy to fix, right? I’ll just spray it heavily with some starch and try again. Willing to fix? No!!!!
Okay, I’ll cut the binding extra wide, starch it, stretch it and then recut it evenly. Makes sense, right? Tell that to the uncooperative crinkled silk! No problem, I thought, I’ll heavily starch the fabric and recut the strips. Does this work to my satisfaction? No!
By this time, I am having words with the silk, calling it some very, very bad names. So, I decided that, despite my desire to toss the whole project into the wastebasket, I would instead put it aside and work on something that is guaranteed to be fun, easy and fast.
And here it is, Kwik-Sew 3616! I’ve had this pattern in my stash since it first came out sometime last year (I think). I love kimono sleeves and the slim fit through the torso. It is definitely a winner!
I made the XS with a couple of adjustments: A full-bust adjustment and a neckline gaposis correction. They were super-easy and I’ll show you how to do that tomorrow. Can’t you just see this lengthened into a dress??? It would be so cute!
I made all of the changes to the pattern and it is now perfect and ready to be made into a permanent pattern. The fit is perfect (I fill it out a bit better on top than Ethel, lol) and it is such an adorable top to wear with jeans or shorts. This time I made a long sleeve which I really like for a little extra sun protection – a trick I learned when I was doing embroidery work for a fishing club. The fabric is a long sold-out rayon/lycra from Textile Studios, one of my handful of favorite internet sources.
Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be cutting out a new Hot Pattern and whipping up a quick work top from a TNT pattern before I get back to the leather bag I was working on before the studio overhaul. Sounds like I need to get up early!
Since I was unable to go away with DBF this weekend due to my less-than-speedy recovery from oral surgery (blech) I am working on getting things cleaned up and finishing up some UFOs.
I had this beautiful fabric leftover from my latest Cosmopolitan Dress and wanted to squeeze out a top before tossing the scraps. Kwik-Sew 2845 seemed perfect – a little bit bohemian – for the paisley print. This used to be one of my very favorite TNT patterns. However, when I lost weight a couple of years ago, the pattern no longer fit and it’s taken me this long to get around to retracing it. Lazy! My original pattern had been a small with a 1″ FBA so this time I decided to just start with a straight XS. Since my bust is much smaller I skipped the FBA but I did add 1″ in length because it seemed a wee bit short. Overall, I am pretty happy with the fit but I will do an FBA next time as the underbust seam is about 1/2″ too high and I’d like more gathers around the neckline. I’d also like a little more length so I’ll add another inch.
Other changes I made to the pattern was a 5/8″ forward shoulder adjustment and I eliminated the gathers under the bust. I think I like it better with the gathers so I’m adding them back in for the next one.
Instead of making buttonholes for the neckline cording I added a seam at the center front. I just think it’s easier and looks a lot neater. Yeah, I know my match is a wee bit off but I knew the cord would cover it so I just left it! No matter how carefully I measure and mark my buttonholes are always a tiny bit off and there is no room for error here. Instead of the ribbon the pattern calls for I made self-fabric cording.
The sleeves are from Kwik-Sew 2643, a long-discontinued pattern. I already knew from last time that they fit into the armscye perfectly so it was just a matter of tracing off a new size. Remember to remove 1/8″ from the armscye of 2845 because it has a 3/8″ hem allowance.
I think this jersey has really had a workout this weekend! First, there was Summerset’s Burda WOF top, Cidell’s maxi dress and now my humble little scrap top. Well, I’m off to make those alterations and trace the pattern onto oak tag!
I have been absolutely DYING to get back into my sewing room for soooo many months! So, yesterday I found myself with a couple of free hours and ran to my sewing room to see what I could whip up. Ordinarily, this would be no problem as I’d pull out a TNT pattern and get going but, since I’ve lost quite a bit of weight, my old TNTs no longer fit. Then I remembered that I’d retraced Kwik-Sew 3378 a couple of months ago and set about finding it.
This pattern is so darn quick and easy to make that I had enough time to embellish the fabric (a fantabulous rayon/lycra from Gorgeous Fabrics) with the silver Blomster transfer from Shop Onion and some hot fix crystals.
I used a commercial heat press set at 300F to apply my transfers but they work just as well with a domestic iron set to just above wool (I believe a wool setting is equal to 290F). I used a Kandi Kane from Sue’s Sparklers to apply the crystals (also from Sue’s) – it’s great fun!
I added a little unexpected detail at the back:
Unfortunately, I was not at all happy with the fit of this size (S) and had to take in the sleeves and midriff areas quite a bit. The bust fits fine. So, the next step is to test out the XS with a full bust adjustment. Hopefully, that will do the trick! Then I need to set some larger blocks of time aside to fit some more patterns because, really, how many twist tops does a girl need?
If any of you received the last Hot Patterns newsletter you can imagine that I felt like Trudy had read my mind when she wrote it. It’s so exciting to get back into shape but such a bummer to have to trash all those perfectly fitted patterns!
The bubble skirt is finished! See all of my pattern alterations The Sewing Divas blog!